The ruins of the historic city of Sukhothai, located about 450 km north of Bangkok and 300 km south of Chiang Mai, are not among the most visited destinations in Thailand. And maybe it's better that way.
While the vastness of Bangkok, the natural beauty of Krabi or the Instagrammable calm of Chiang Mai absorb most of the tourism, Sukhothai remains pristine, free of the consequences of overcrowding and ready to reveal itself as one of the best destinations in our nation. Today, we are going to discover what there is to see in what, for us, are the most impressive ruins in Thailand.
The first great kingdom of Thailand
Considered the origin of Thai culture, the city of Sukhothai was the first capital of Thailand. Founded in the 13th century, Sukhothai, which means "Dawn of Happiness", was the home of the king and religious leader Ramkhamhaeng —considered the nation's founding father—, the cradle of the Thai alphabet, location of one of the country's most mystical and gigantic Buddhas, and the source of the architectural style considered the golden age of Thai civilization.
The creation of this cultural marvel, as with the founding of Rome, unites legend and reality with the story of two princes, Pho Khun Pha Muang and Pho Khun-Bang Klang Hao, who They combined their forces to reclaim the city and transform it into the seat of a kingdom that would extend its influence as far as China, founding trade routes and importing the art of ceramics to the Thais. This period brings us a certain nostalgia in Thailand, as it is considered an ancient era of prosperity and good governance, in which Buddhism flourished and many impressive monasteries of brick covered with carved stucco were built, illustrating the idealized beauty of the Buddha.
Of its eight kings, Ramkhamhaeng is best known for his role as a promoter of religion and culture, while Thammaracha IV is infamous for the decline of his rule and for moving the capital to Phitsanulok. In 1438 the city of Sukhothai (which would continue to decline until it was finally abandoned in 1584) was absorbed by the kingdom of Siam, and the capital was moved to the city of Ayutthaya.
Next tip: You'll enjoy your visit more by renting a bike. It costs around 70 Bahts a day (€2) and at the park entrance there are several stalls to rent them. And it is that in the area there are at least 20 temples that can be considered visitable —although the ruins are innumerable here and there—, so cycling helps to take advantage of the day and experience a hectic sensation of freedom.
Map of Sukhothai Historical Park
The Sukhothai Historical Park has a zone pricing system: the city center, the north zone, west, south and east. The entrance to each zone costs about 100 baht. This pass system is a bit convoluted, and the passes are only valid for one day, so if you only have one day, we recommend buying the five zone pass directly which costs 350 baht (€9.5).
There is a very interesting audio guide that, in English, tells the story of each one of the ruins and costs an additional 300 bahts (€8).
Our advice is to visit the park early in the morning and enjoy the sunrise in this exceptional enclave, with the light of dawn reflecting on all the lakes and streams that decorate the ancient city. It is ideal for taking unforgettable photos, and, in addition, the temperature is much cooler in summer, ideal for traveling to Thailand with quality.
What to see in Sukhothai
The new city of Sukhothai is only 12 kilometers from the Historical Park.
First tip: Although for many it is little more than a “base camp” to visit the ruins, there is a very interesting night market in the city that you must visit when traveling to Thailand >. It is an amazing place with many kiosks with genuine Thai food, fruit, and drinks. You can try everything here, and everything very typical, even sushi and grilled insects! It is an addition to the visit that offers a completely different perspective to the experience.
The National Ramkhamhaeng Museum
The ideal way to immerse yourself in the history of this place: the museum, on the same access street to the Historical Park, houses innumerable objects from the Park —but also from other enclaves, such as the Park Si Satchanalai—showing the history and way of life of the ancient inhabitants of the city.
Open every day from 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. except Monday, Tuesday and public holidays. The price to access this museum is 150 baths (€4.15).
Wat Traphang Thong
Its location on the outskirts of Sukhothai Historical Park, and its beautiful wooden bridge make Wat Traphang Thong a must-see. Free entrance! The ancient bell-shaped pagoda is very well preserved and was part of the original temple that stood on the same spot. If you are lucky enough to visit the place on November 1, Wat Traphang Thong is the place where the locals celebrate Loy Krathong.
Wat Mahathat
The most impressive temple in the entire Historical Park and one that you cannot miss when traveling to Thailand: its name means "Temple of the Great Relic" and it is believed It was built over a period of five decades during the kingdom of Siam, between the years 1292 and 1347.
The temple represents the mythical Mount Meru, the center of the universe in Thailand. The giant Khmer-style pagoda contained the relics of the Buddha and the stupas around it represent the mountain ranges around Mount Meru. Beneath the images of the Buddhas are mantras and instructions for their worship.
The moat symbolizes the cosmic ocean, the infinite. It is a lovely space to sit and reflect. Third tip: contemplating the sunrise or sunset here, with the sunlight reflected in the waters of the temple, is a mystical experience that you can probably only live once, don't let the mosquitoes get you sour and take plenty of insect repellent with you.
Sukhothai Noodles
This tasty recipe that mixes rice noodles with sliced pork, pork dumplings, dried shrimp, crushed peanuts and long beans in a chicken broth is the emblem of the region's gastronomy.
Take a look at the recipe!
Wat Si Sawai
No one knows what the temple was called during the Khmer era, but we do know that the temple began as a Hindu shrine: historians found numerous archaeological evidence in the area, including Chinese porcelains and statues of gods Hinduists, concluding that it was first built as a Hindu religious structure and later converted into a Buddhist temple.
At Wat Si Sawai its prangs (pagodas) feature the Lopburi style of architecture, and resemble those seen at Angkor Wat.
The 15 meter talking Buddha image of Wat Si Chum
Sukhothai's largest Buddha image is 15 meters tall and is housed in the Wat Si Chum temple. Built in the 13th century, its open-air structure and imposing portico (mondop) create the ideal setting for one of Thailand's most mystical Buddhas to rest, next to a Bodhi tree as old as the city. The image is known as Phra Acana, which means "the one who is not afraid" or "the imperturbable one." According to legend, a Burmese army that invaded Sukhothai fled upon seeing this image.
The locals pray before the Buddha image with candles and incense sticks in their hands, bringing offerings and reciting prayers.
The walls of the mondo are much thicker than they would need to be, because they cover a narrow passage, lined with depictions of the life of the Buddha that allows the image to be climbed around.
But why is this huge statue nicknamed the Talking Buddha? Legend has it that the great king Naresuan, wanting to raise the morale of his top generals before the war, he led his men before the Buddha, who spoke, predicting their victory. This prophecy filled the hearts of the brave warriors with determination, who were probably unaware that, from the small window of the image, one of the king's men was the true author of the speech. One of the many curiosities you learn when traveling to Thailand.
A festival of light
During Loy Krathong, the full moon of the 12th month of the Thai lunar calendar, when hundreds of floating lanterns are launched into the sky and ply the rivers in the country, Sukhothai comes back to life.
The word Loi means 'float' and Krathong means 'container, boat or vessel', and people float a krathong decorated with candles and flowers on the water. Thai people believe that this is a way to get rid of bad luck and negative feelings, and bring good luck and positive feelings.
It is a truly magical and unforgettable moment, in which the ruins shine brightly.
